The Grower’s Perspective: Part 1
In the first of an ongoing series, Mark Stevenson, who runs The Clays Organic Market Garden in Warborough, talks about the importance of eating seasonally and his excitement at working with us. Mark and The Clays is our chief supplier of fruit and vegetables and we are proud to be showcasing his skill and brilliant produce. As well as on our menu, you are able to buy Mark’s produce from the Wallingford Local Producers Market, held each Saturday 10-12 at Centre 70, near the Kinecroft.
One of the main problems I have faced as a grower is that people often don't know how to turn all this produce into a tasty meal. “What do I do with it?” and “Have you got a good recipe for this?” are the two most common questions at my market stall. Now Five Little Pigs have come trotting to the rescue. Aimee, the Head Chef, knows what to do!
I am excited about working with Five Little Pigs. Sustainably growing fruit and veg for local consumption (including myself) was my motive to switch from teaching maths to starting an organic market garden: there just wasn't enough of it around! We can grow a magnificent range of fruit and veg in this country, throughout the year without the aid of artificially lit and heated greenhouses. We are what we eat, which depends on how our food is grown, so my principle aim is for a healthy soil and balanced eco-system. That's what creates healthy, lively plants. I achieve this through using organic methods (The Clays is registered with the Soil Association). Seasonality is a key outcome and brings with it the joy and excitement of the ever changing range of produce as the year progresses: the tasty verdancy of spring greens, the first spears of asparagus, the vermillion of ripening strawberries, the butteriness of new potatoes, the depth of flavour in truly sun-ripened tomatoes, the rich nuttiness of matured winter squash.
It is a pleasure to work with Aimee because she recognises this, starts from what is growing well and devises seasonal recipes to bring out its quality. It requires flexibility, understanding and a real respect for the produce (which to my mind underpins all good cooking). All too often chefs start with what they want on the menu and then wonder how to get it there. As a grower I couldn't ask for more, but better still we are planning to enable other members of Five Little Pigs staff to make working visits to The Clays to develop their knowledge and understanding. An exciting venture, giving “field to fork” real meaning.
The earliest of The Clays broad beans, young, tender and delicious will be ready for harvest just in time for the opening of Five Little Pigs. The delayed asparagus season is finally under way (after a horribly cold and frosty April) and you'll need to try Aimee's rhubarb compote. They're all on the menu.

